“Colour! What a deep and mysterious language, the language of dreams.”
Paul Gauguin.
Tourmaline.
The earliest written documents in existence include descriptions of the buying and selling of coloured gemstones in the markets of Mesopotamia.
Archaeological finds have revealed that our fascination with coloured gemstones goes back further still, predating recorded history by as many as 100,000 years.
And yet, in jewellery terms, most of us with an interest in jewels have lived through a period in which one particular gemstone – famously hard and typically transparent – has dominated the market to an overwhelming extent. The second half of the 20th century was, so to speak, the golden age of the white diamond.
Lately, however, we have rediscovered our love of coloured gemstones. Today they are everywhere you look. A veritable rainbow of jewels illuminates the red carpets of Hollywood and Cannes, the catwalks of Paris and Milan, the vitrines of Bond Street and Madison Avenue, the pages of fashion magazines.
Increasingly, we have come to appreciate and value coloured gemstones not merely for their loveliness – exceptional as that may be – but also for the way in which they connect us to other aspects of experience and to the natural world from which they come.
Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908) of the late Qing Dynasty held a deep appreciation for tourmaline gemstones, leaving a lasting impact on Chinese culture. Her love for tourmaline elevated its popularity, making it highly coveted among the elite. This influenced fashion trends and led to the creation of intricate tourmaline-inlaid jewellery and decorative objects. Skilled artisans crafted elaborate pieces featuring meticulous placement of tourmaline stones, accompanied by intricate gold or silver filigree work. These designs drew inspiration from traditional Chinese motifs and symbolism, reflecting Cixi's passion and showcasing the gem's vibrant colours.
